Seoul Trip

Saturday July 14th and Sophie had a trip to Seoul planned to go and get her hair done. Yes apparently for you girls out there who colour your hair (blond) it's hard to find somewhere in Jeonju that has western hair experience and a trip to Seoul is the answer.

We'll ignore the fact that I got my hair done here in Jeonju by a Korean woman with perfect English who studied hair dressing in London's Videl Sassoon's salon because apparently Seoul is the only answer :)

I originally wasn't planning on going on this hair adventure and decided that on Friday night, I'd head to the local dive bar Radio Star. It's a good bar here in Jeonju popular with foreigners with live music and random instruments scattered around the room and an open DJ box for you to add whatever you like to the playlist.

I arrived back home somewhat intoxicated at 7:40, and in efforts to prevent waking up Sophie thought it was best to get undressed for bed - outside the apartment door - to cause as little distraction as possible. This however didn't work and whilst sneaking in Sophie awoke. She asked to wake her up at 7:30 to which I replied with the current time!

Sophie got up and started to get her stuff together for the morning bus to Seoul, now the night before my friend and co-worker had invited me to Seoul with him as he was heading to visit a friend, so still drunk thought that this would be good. We can all go to Seoul together, the girls can go off and do the hair thing and we can do our thing and meet up later for drinks. I packed a bag, poorly and was on my way.

I slept for the duration of the trip and when I awoke in Seoul I was struggling but, was determined to have myself a good time. We found our way to Chris' friends apartment where we we're treated to home made Mexican food! I feel now would be the time to mention that Chris aka Mexi-Chris and his friend Linda are both Mexican. It was the perfect food for the state I was in and ended up taking priority over any sight seeing we originally had planned.

We did however make it out to Seoul Tower and although the weather was a little rainy, in my opinion just added to the view over Seoul. The stormy sky for me really made the view so much more dramatic!

Martyrs Mount Jeonju

On July 9th after our trip to the museums the day before, we decided to hike Martyr mountain, Martyr Mountain is in the southern part of Jeonju and is the final resting place of six Catholic missionaries, killed for their beliefs. We walked there from Hannok Village as we were told it was just five minutes away. Not quite true, it's about a half hour walk from Hannok and fairly easy to find.

The trail itself was beautiful and laden with 13 crosses marking the burial sight of members from the Catholic Church. We were the only people on the mountain and found it a very peaceful experience, however the humidity and heat made it a challenge, the climb is very steep.

Towards the top of the mountain - just as we were thinking of turning back around - we came across a Catholic Church, outside was a much needed water fountain and inside was a wonderful Church that anyone religious or not can appreciate. There was a lady inside playing some 'your going to die' music on the organ and after an hour of thinking we were the only people on the mountain, it kinda felt like a scene from a horror film! Still this is an amazing place I'd recommend to anyone.

As we reach the peak there's a traditional-style tomb that marks the final burial place of the martyred family, six painted circles on the floor which, I assume, is one for each family member. A man appeared from behind us and stood in front of the tomb to say a prayer, he moved to the largest circle on the ground to say a second prayer. He then followed the circles that lead to a path that took you up to a cross overlooking the tomb and I can only guess that here he said a final prayer. 

Even if you aren't Catholic, as in my case, it's still an amazing and peaceful place to visit with some great views over Jeonju.

Jeonju Historical Museum and Jeonju National Museum

Ok, so it's been a month or so now since I've last blogged. This is largely due to the fact we've been really busy and not had much time at the apartment. That and it's the end of term so report cards, testing, and other goings on has kept me from this blog. However I find myself here on a Friday morning with nothing to do, the rain falls outside and I've exhausted Facebook already so let me take you back to July 8th.

About an hour's walk from our apartment are two museums - the Jeonju Historical Museum and The Jeonju National Museum.

Id did however take us about three hours as we had no real idea where we were heading. On our walk we came across what looked like a business park, all nice new shiny buildings with some nice surrounding grounds. Now, just out the front of this business park were a load of cars and bikes lined up, OK nothing strange there however these cars and bikes were Children's cars and bikes! I figured this must have been the HQ of Triple Velvet or something.

Last week and cover lessons

Firstly just a recap of the week just gone. It was a bit of a difficult week, it should have been easy, all my middle school classes were in testing so my daily lessons were greatly reduced. Some of the middle school kids were finishing their tests and I, basically, had to do cover lessons. Nothing from the books but something light and fun but still gets them working.

I think it's fair to say I failed. 1st class I decided to focus on creative writing and got over my personal opinion and printed out some passages from Harry Potter. The plan was to try and get them to describe a character of their own. I was faced with blank, bored expressions that gradually found themselves planted firmly on the desk. This was clearly not the way to go. 

2nd period comes around and I'm a student short, I figure he was so bored he was allowed to go home...nice one Chris, way to connect with the kids. Anyway for the next period I thought a more visual approach might be more fun. So ready for round two armed with story boards and pencil crayons I at least managed to keep the remaining two students mildly entertained.

The following day I had cover again. I decided I'd keep the same subject of descriptive writing but with a more visual approach. I created some character sheets where they could design their own and fill out the expression, appearance and traits sections. I figured this combined with talking about what different traits etc would take up the 1st lesson. Next lesson I had some story boards that they then had to come up with a short story to place their character in.

Kids naturally are expressive and descriptive in their drawings no matter what the quality, I thought it would be a good way to help them visualise something to write about in a descriptive way as for the final lesson they had to then write me a short story or just write about one scene in particular. It did work ok, but they did get bored quickly and refused to write anything.

Thursday I had the same thing, as the lesson almost worked the previous day I though I'd try it again but just focus on the one character and describing that alone. I was faced with a solid wall of defiance. They felt patronised that I had crayons and refused point blank to draw or write anything. I tried to talk to them and get a conversation going and just have a speaking lesson, but still they would rather sit for 3 hours in silence than draw or have a conversation.

I resorted to asking them what they would like to do, same response. I ended up putting up on the board a Wordament puzzle. Kind of like a word search but you can find words in any direction providing its a touching tile. I didn't say anything I just put it up on the board and drew one example and just sat back. Sure enough not even the most stubborn of minds can resist a word puzzle and the silence is broken from the most difficult student with a good 6 letter word! So for the remainder of the day it was a variety of word games. Although I've now learned Hangman is not allowed in Korean Schools, it because of the high suicide rate of children they don't want to give anyone any ideas.

So Friday comes and I though life was back to normal but I was mistaken. I had another cover lesson. I don't feel I've had my head in the game all week and with no free periods I was just unable to prep any form of lesson plan that even I wasn't bored just thinking about it. I decided to turn to a colleague for help and just be honest. I wasn't prepared and I had no idea how to teach/entertain these students for 3 periods. I was aware that my previous plans were not working and weren't really fit for their level and it had been noticed.

My colleague very kindly let me use his lesson plan about truth and opinion, distinguishing the difference and getting into debates. As defiant as they were not to do any work they did get on with it as if it were a normal class. 

Eventually the bell ended what felt like a very long week and I enter the weekend slightly demoralised with some harsh lessons learned. I guess every teacher at some point or other has days like that. At least my basic classes have me smiling.

Saturday we went to the Jeonju museums, I've got loads of photos so when I get back from today's adventures I'll update again with some pics.

Working at Sullivan Language Institute

Ok, so I've been a little slack on the blog updates recently but I have a good excuse. It's Friday evening and I've just completed my 2nd solo week working as an English teacher for Sullivan - so let me tell you what the working life is like so far - being the new boy.

Sullivan is an English Hagwon, it's a school that parents send their kids to after their normal day at school for extra tuition in English. There are all kinds of Hagwon's from language – dance; and it's not uncommon for a child to finish their school day and still have 3- 4 Hagwon classes to go to.

My working day starts at 14:10 and I clock out at 21:10 Monday - Friday. I've got 11 classes in total. 4 basic classes which are the young ones and the rest are intermediate and middle school. My students age ranges from about 7 years of age to 15 - Korean age - which is 1 or 2 years older than western age depending on when in the year they were born - I still don't get it.

Monday is pretty full on, I arrive at 14:10, first class is 14:45 and continue to have 5 more back to back classes with 5 minutes between. Lunch is a 10 minute break between 3rd and 4th class. For food we order from a menu for the week and it's delivered to our office. Friday is McDonald's Friday - Ah Yeah.

Tuesday - Thursday I'm lucky enough to have the 3rd period free to regroup and get started on the next day’s prep. Also these are the days I'll order something a little more substantial from the food menu as I have more time to eat. Friday my time table is the same as Monday however with one difference - Friday is Wee Sing day! (The book spells it wee) so for my 1st two basic classes we sing nursery rhymes while I dance around like a prat - at the moment we're learning 'The Train' song and I've been getting them to all dance like Andy Kaufman - my sister will be pleased.

Teaching here is great fun and is nothing like schools back home, the younger kids are so excitable and eager to learn - competing to be top of the class, the older ones are pretty universal - becoming teenagers sees them grunting in defiance just as we all once did.

It is a full on day’s work, and sickness isn't really accepted. There are no cover teachers and you can't be seen to be doing nothing. Korean culture is a - very - hard working one. Some of our co-teachers are working 7 days a week.

We only get 10 days holiday throughout the year and we can’t take that in one block, we can’t even choose the days we do take. We get the national holidays off and that’s pretty much it apart from the odd optional day where if you do decide to work you get time and a half. 

At the end of July we'll have a 4 day weekend so we'll be making the most of it and will be going somewhere nice. Although you don't get the holidays as you would back home, it’s easy enough to travel around Korea at the weekends and there’s plenty to see.

I would also like to say just how good Sullivan Language Institute is, obviously when deciding to do something like this it can be a bit daunting and there are horror stories of people getting screwed over, people doing the midnight run etc, you can find a list of blacklisted schools online - I'll add a links page when I get the chance - but it's still somewhat of a risk.

Sullivan, however, has been great. They have looked after both me and Sophie so well, on arrival at the airport I was met by a guy who bought my bus ticket and put me on the right bus to Jeonju, after a 4 hour bus ride Mr Lee and Sun were waiting for me and drove me to my apartment.

They took me to the bank in the next few days to get my bank account set up and also got my alien card sorted. It was my birthday in the first week and I was surprised with a cake in the office and a present from Sun and Mr Lee. All the staff are lovely and very helpful, I don't feel awkward asking for help at all.

I would say for some advice if you do decide to do this, always ask for help if you’re unsure, I know it's often said but in this environment it's a must. It's so fast paced that you’re going to miss things to start with, but everyone else has been there before and knows what it’s like.

At my school there are 3 foreign teachers including me and 8 maybe 9 Koreans, upstairs is another school, EG which is part of Sullivan, I think, it's owned by the same people anyway and I teach one class up there myself. There are a further 4 maybe 5 foreign teachers that work up here, I'm not entirely sure. EG kids are generally the advanced kids, the ones who can actually hold a full conversation with you. Again I will add a links page with info on Sullivan. 

It's also a good sign that most of the foreign teachers that are here have stayed on for a 2nd or 3rd year. Right now there is a change over, with me and others arriving, old staff are heading home or elsewhere on their travels. There is a very strong community here amongst the westerners which is great but also if you want you can head out and not see a single westerner all day. I am loving living in Jeonju, Before moving here I'd never heard of it, but after visiting a few of the larger cities with more westerners around I actually wouldn't want to live anywhere else. 

We really have landed on our feet here and would recommend Jeonju to anyone.

Daedun Mountain in North Jeolla

So last Sunday we were invited to join Jennifer for a hike up Daedun Mountain. Now I don't know about you but a hike to me suggests a good long walk, perhaps a slight incline from time to time, like a hike in the lakes for example. Here in Korea it seems a hike means full on mountain climb!

We took the one hour bus ride north to Daedunsan from Jeonju, pretty straight forward with a direct bus that dropped us off at the foot of the Mountain. As we walk up the steep hill past the restaurants and shops the first moment of doubt hits about the level of difficulty this hike will be.

I feel I should also mention the fact that the Euro 2012 games are at 1am and 3:45am here I was going off 1 hours sleep.

There were some interesting sights on the short hill past the shops, this being my favourite.

A pissing fountain 

Now if I can just bring your attention to the white bottles around the base of the fountains piss bowl, they are bottles of Mokoli. A rice wine that we were introduced to by Casanova in Hanok. It seems they like it here...a lot! We're told that the Koreans, before a good hike like to partake in a little Mokoli drinking and there are stations all up the mountain that serve Mokoli. Now I don't now about you but getting pissed while climbing a mountain sounds like a bad idea to me! We decided to pass on the Mokoli this time.

As we progress to the mountain we start with an amazing staircase through the trees, never really sure where to look because there's so much to take in. Although I did find it funny that there was some work out equipment here, it seems that's another thing they like here, to work out while on a hike!

Stairs at the foot of the mountain 

It's not long before the stair case loosens and the rocks become more uneven and scattered making this hike a little more of a challenge, not to mention the steep incline that the path is on makes it feel more of a climb than a hike.

I pretty good tree, as far as trees go

Out of focus but you get the picture

looking back 

Soon enough the trees begin to break and due to the steep incline the views begin to emerge. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds in the sky which proved for some great views.

Not even half way up yet

Daedun Mountain is know for it's suspension bridge, which I think is one of if not the biggest suspension bridge that connects two peaks of the mountain with an 80M drop. This is where I start to get excited with ideas of Indiana Jones re-enactments and photo opportunities and Sophie becomes a little nervous. By the time we reach the bridge the 80M drop turns my stomach a little and a moment of worry before thinking just how brave Indi must have been to cut that rope!

Just arrived at the suspension bridge

Made it across

Looking from above

A borrowed photo just to illustrate the hight and distance of this bridge 

A slightly dodgy panoramic from the centre, but you get the idea

We progress up the mountain with yet more amazing views until we got to the suspension staircase, yep, not only do they have a bridge but they have a staircase which is round about 60 degrees steep with waist high hand rails. This was a little easier than the bridge but as you got higher you could feel a slight sway and when you turned around, well, the view and feeling was amazing. It felt as though you were right on the edge with nothing disrupting your view.

Suspension Staircase

View from the foot of the staircase

The other way

Couldn't help but think ' what if it breaks' I kept my thoughts to myself though 

View from half way up the staircase

Half way up, the previous photos were taken from that green platform 

Looking down the staircase, also in the background you can see the bridge we crossed

                                   

Prometheus

After our golfing fiasco we went to the cinema to watch Prometheus, this in itself is pretty boring to read I know, it's not like I update everyone with every film I see back home so why now? Well no real reason really apart from the fact that I've got some quite nice, maybe even average, stereotypical holiday snaps I'd like to share :)